Choosing the Right Glue

While I often hear people lament about the wide range of furniture finishes crowding the shelves in home improvement stores, the same can also be said of adhesives. Knowing which one is the best one for each situation, whether it be furniture, ceramics, veneer, paper or outdoors, can be confusing.

Add to that the fact that you often only get one chance to do it right and the pressure mounts.

Here, then, is a quick summary of the various glues you might need around your house:

Woodworker's Glue - Recognize by its distinctive yellow color, this adhesive works best on raw, unsealed wood. For best results, spread a thin layer on both surfaces, press together, then apply moderate pressure with clamps or weights for 24 hours. Wash off excess glue with warm water immediately, as any dried glue will prevent the pores from absorbing a stain or finish. This glue is so strong that the wood will break before the glue joint. The most popular brand is Titebond, who also makes a waterproof version for outdoor use.

White Glue - This is for school projects or simply gluing two sheets of paper together, for it is far weaker than woodworker's glue. Elmer's is a well-known brand.

Super-Glue - Best used on non-porous surfaces, such as glass or ceramics, but is notorious for gluing fingers together. Does not work on raw wood. When it does work, which is not every time, you only get one chance to align the two pieces perfectly, for it cannot be repositioned once the two surfaces have touched. Warning: do not use on valuable pieces of glass or pottery. Consult a professional restoration expert, for the improper use of Super-Glue can permanently reduce the value of your piece.

Contact Cement - Most often used to attach large sheets of veneer to an underlayment, where clamping would be difficult. Brush a coat of the thick glue to each surface, then let it dry completely. When pressed together, a permanent bond occurs instantly. To aid in positioning, place a sheet of wax paper between the two surfaces, then carefully slide the wax paper out from between the two glued surfaces.

Hide Glue - This was the glue used on furniture during the Arts & Crafts era. Although it is weaker than woodworker's glue, many restorers and woodworkers prefer it for that very reason. If a joint is placed under extreme stress, the hide glue will let loose before the wood breaks.

Epoxy - The extreme glue. Comes in two tubes: a resin and a hardener. As soon as you mix the two together, you have less than five minutes to apply it and clamp the two boards together. Should only be used in situations where the old glue has penetrated so deep into the pores of the wood that woodworker's glue cannot be effective. Many restorers shun epoxy for antiques because the bond is permanent and is stronger than the surrounding wood. I do not use it on antiques, but would reach for it on used, non-antique furniture that has been previously re-glued unsuccessfully.

Good Luck!

- Bruce

Next Week: How Many Clamps Is Enough?