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Okay - we've been putting it off long enough.
It is now warm enough, it is now dry enough and we now have time enough.
This week we are re-coating the front door.
The ultra-violet rays of the sun will do to any exterior wood exactly what it would do to our skin if we did not apply sunscreen: burn them. And unlike our skin, wood does not rejuvenate itself.
Without a durable finish, the sun would bake the wood, snow and ice would seep in and start the rot that would eventually discolor and ruin it. So, just like applying more sunscreen, we are going to apply more clear finish.
And we are going to follow three simple rules: Clean, Dry, Scuffed.
Clean - A clear finish will not stick to dirt, dust, wax or polish. Avoid homemade cleaners containing ammonia or harsh chemicals. Use a commercial wood cleaner or, if the wood has wax or polish on it, ordinary paint thinner (mineral spirits) and a clean cloth.
Dry - A new coat of finish will trap in the pores any liquid left from the cleaning process, so make sure the wood is completely dry. Take a look at the weather forecast, too, for you don’t want rain blowing against your sticky finish.
Scuffed - If the old finish on your door is flaking off, take #120-grit sandpaper and sand off any loose finish. If the finish is intact, but wearing off, use #180-grit to lightly scuff it. The resulting scratches in the old finish will give the new finish something to cling to. Wipe or vacuum off the dust and you are ready to re-coat.
But what kind of finish?
You really only have two choices: an exterior brush-on finish or an exterior wipe-on finish. Just make sure the label clearly indicates it is designed for exterior use.
A brush-on finish, such as Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, requires a bristle brush and a little more time, but leaves you with a thicker, stronger finish. I recommend it for doors where the old finish had started to flake off and had to be heavily sanded.
As its name implies, a wipe-on finish, such as Teak Oil, can be applied with a cloth, but each coat is thinner than the brush-on Helmsman. It is ideal for intact finishes that are just beginning to show some wear (top photo; use cursor to enlarge). Teak Oil also gives you a more natural appearance, but has to be re-coated more often than Helmsman.
All finishes are easier to apply if you take the door off and lay it horizontal, but it's not required. If you do leave your door upright, check back a few minutes later with your brush to smooth out any runs, sags or drips that develop, especially around raised panels and grooves in the wood.
So, no more excuses. Now is the time for re-coating, before that slightly-worn look turns into an ugly, permanent dark discoloring.
Good Luck!
- Bruce
Next Week: The Pergola Project Begins: Daily Blogs From The Ladder

Bruce Johnson
ph: 828.628.1915
Mon.-Fri. 9-5pm (EST)
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