Keeping A Finish On Your Front Door

Nearly every Arts & Crafts house was meant to have a wooden front door, but keeping a clear, protective finish on any exterior door can be a challenge. The combination of the ultraviolet rays from the sun, pounding rain and freezing snow and ice can break down a weak or aging finish in a matter of months. Despite these obstacles and regardless whether the wood is oak, fir, redwood or any relative of mahogany, a clear finish – when properly applied - will bring out the beauty of the wood and will preserve your investment for years to come.

The first step is to evaluate the condition of the existing finish. You can apply a new urethane finish over an existing finish if the old finish is still firmly attached to the wood. However, if you can scrape off the old finish with your fingernail, then it has lost its grip and must come off – either with #100-grit sandpaper or a liquid stripper. Brushing a new finish over a weak old finish will only guarantee that both finishes will soon be peeling off.

You can recoat an intact, but thin previous finish if you follow these three rules: clean, dry and scuffed. To clean off any dirt, oil or wax, wash the finish thoroughly with mineral spirits (paint thinner). Wipe off the mineral spirits with a clean, dry cloth and allow the wood to dry. Finally, scuff the old finish by lightly sanding with #180- or #220-grit sandpaper. (Note: both are better than steel wool at scuffing.) This provides the new finish with an etched surface to grip tightly.

These next directions apply to either stripped, scuffed or new wood that has been stained or is being left in its natural color.

First, whenever possible, remove the door and lay it horizontal. This will eliminate runs and will enable gravity to pull the finish into the pores of the wood. Second, remove any dust with a vacuum or tack cloth. Third, start with a clean bristle brush (cheap foam brushes leave ridges and bubbles!) and a fresh can of exterior finish.

A note on finishes: this is not the time to save a few cents by using an old can of finish, an inferior brand or a finish that does not state “for exterior use.” These may look and brush okay, but all of your labor will be lost (and more required) when they begin to peel in a few months. Select a quality brand, such as Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane (Minwax.com), in a satin sheen for an antique look.

Like plywood, two thin coats of finish are stronger than one thick coat – but do not thin your new finish, for that will weaken the formula. Instead, apply full strength in thin coats. Dip just the tips of your bristles into the finish and use the upper portion to work the finish into the wood, brushing in the direction of the grain of the wood. Allow the first coat to dry overnight, then scuff lightly with #220-grit sandpaper, remove the dust and apply a second coat. Unless the wood is extremely porous, two coats are generally sufficient. If you see dry spots, apply a third coat in the same manner over the entire door.

Even with proper application, a new exterior finish will need some help, especially if exposed to more than four hours of direct sunlight a day. Once a year, scuff the finish lightly, then apply a fresh coat of protection. You can do this without taking the door down. This will insure that the wood will have plenty of protection and that the finish won’t begin to flake or peel prematurely.

TIP: Apply plenty of finish to the four edges of your door, as well, for this is where water can seep behind your new finish and ruin it.

Coming Next: "Saving and Protecting Older Finishes"

- bj